Photo: Imaxtree
For abounding women, their accord with their beard is a acutely claimed one, and a accountable that's accordingly intertwined with identity, self-image, self-care, politics, ability and amusing pressures. For Black women, it can be alike added complicated. A continued history of Eurocentric adorableness standards — not to acknowledgment unparalleled structural and institutionalized policing — has impacted the way in which Black women chronicle to and affliction for their hair.
We're active during a time aback accustomed textures and Afros are adequate added acclaimed in boilerplate culture, in entertainment, in advertising; Tracee Ellis Ross is admired as a beard amount — as she should be — and she has her own cast accouterment accurately to coiled and coiled textures to appearance for it. Abounding Black women accept amorphous to amend years of chemically straightening their beard or to second-guess their cottony presses, with some chopping off and growing out their beard in an accomplishment to "go natural" and rid every aftermost fiber of its history of accepting been relaxed.
But there's still a lot (a lot) of assignment that needs to be done to end bigotry adjoin accustomed hair, whether in the abode or in broader culture. And no two women's adventures are absolutely the same. With that in mind, we asked three Black women to allotment their adapted belief of their own beard journeys, accurately attractive at their transitionary periods aback they chose to go from chemically alleviative their beard to "going natural."
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Anika Reed, Deputy Editor, USA Today
Anika Reed.
Photo: Courtesy of Anika Reed
Editor Anika Reed had a adequately archetypal aboriginal relaxer experience. Reed explains that because she and her mother had adapted beard textures — Reed's actuality the added tightly-coiled — her mom begin it acid to advance and appearance her hair, appropriately bidding Reed to relax her beard every three months throughout best of her life, until she angry 23. "December 2017 was the aftermost time I got my beard relaxed, and so I've been activity accustomed anytime aback then. I never did a big chop — I aloof approved my best to transition, which was absolutely not consistently easy," she says. "I've been transitioning anytime since, and in October [of 2018] is aback I assuredly chopped off the aftermost of the beeline ends — so I've been absolutely accustomed anytime since. I do still align my beard [with a flatiron] because I haven't begin the time to amount out the assets I need. I haven't been aback to the hairdresser, who is activity to advice me amount out the appropriate articles or the appropriate techniques of how to appearance and do my beard in a way that makes me feel adequate and beautiful."
Taylor Campbell, Appearance Blogger, TayTrèsChic
Taylor Campbell.
Photo: Courtesy of Taylor Campbell
Fashion blogger Taylor Campbell began accepting her beard airy as adolescent as four years old. "That was the affair – we went with our parents and we got our beard done and we kept a relaxer because accepting blubbery beard was not 'manageable' — so that's aloof what we did," she says. Campbell wasn't a allotment of the decision, and remained blind of the accessible implications that appear with chemically altering one's beard for years.
"I anticipate it was aloof one of those things that anybody did and I aloof affectionate of went with it. I didn't catechism whether or not it was the appropriate affair to do because that's aloof what it was. Anybody was accomplishing it and [my mom] got one and I would go [to the salon] and the added little girls were accepting theirs, as well, and I would get little ponytails," she says. "I noticed that my beard was easier to administer and it was absolutely continued and healthy, behindhand of the chemicals. There was never a time area I questioned, 'Is this accustomed or this right'? There were no little girls about me either who didn't accept [their beard relaxed]. Anybody had it, I rarely saw addition with their coiled or accustomed beard out."
It was alone until Campbell was afflicted to that she absitively to go natural. Accepting confused to Wisconsin afterwards admission from college, she begin it difficult to acquisition a hairstylist in her new burghal that could do her beard properly. "The boondocks was 98% white and there was no one there to do my hair," she says. "So I consistently would do it on my own, but the accomplished relaxer-thing acquainted like a lot. I transitioned and afresh I big-chopped ,and I acquainted that it was accept for me to do that because they didn't apperceive what my beard was declared to attending like anyway. I transitioned and I got an inch cut off every month, and one day I looked in the mirror and was like, 'You apperceive what? I'm aloof activity to chop the blow of it off.'"
Campbell adds that the "surge of amusing media aback anybody was hashtagging #ILoveMyNatural" was what initially sparked her absorption in authoritative the transition. "I don't feel like I was a trailblazer per se, but I absolutely approved it eventually than my counterparts," she notes. "My best acquaintance [went natural] a brace of months above-mentioned and all I did anyhow was watch YouTube videos so I was actual abundant fascinated. I watched belief apropos bodies transitioning to natural. That's why I absitively to alteration afore I chopped."
Though Campbell is animated to accept fabricated the transition, she doesn't necessarily affliction the years she spent adequate her hair. "I anticipate I added so affliction not demography bigger affliction of it aback I was accustomed chargeless rein over my beard [later]. I don't anticipate it adapted my coil pattern, but it has absolutely afflicted my lens of what I anticipate is adequate for hair," she recalls. "For instance, every job account I would go on, I acquainted the charge to abrasion my beard straight. If I was activity to go to a academic event, I acquainted like my beard bare to be glassy and beeline to attending 'nice' or to be 'pretty.' I've aloof gotten accomplished that and accept gone to interviews with my twist-out because they're activity to get whatever I accord them now."
Jourdan Ash, Writer and Host, "Dating in NYC" Podcast
Jourdan Ash.
Photo: Courtesy of Jourdan Ash
Writer Jourdan Ash was in sixth brand aback she aboriginal noticed her aeon had relaxers, and in seventh grade, she started pressuring her mom to let her get one, too. Leading up to aerial school, Ash would flatiron her beard to accomplish a added "grown" look, and already she entered ninth grade, she began accepting relaxers regularly. "I got into academy and I still had a relaxer and I capital to accumulate accepting a relaxer, but the affair about academy is that you're broke, so a lot of times, we were accomplishing our own hair. I was flatironing it added often. I was activity out added generally and because I was activity out, I was afraid it out added often," she says. "I bethink accepting my homegirl do a relaxer on me, but us not absolution it [process] continued abundant so it was still blubbery and wavy, and I aloof knew I couldn't do it afresh after actuality bald."
Ash's alteration to accustomed beard is about identical to Campbell's in that she chose to cut off her airy ends herself. "I don't bethink what happened, but I started to alteration into activity natural. Instead of acid it off completely, I would cut it piece-by-piece," recalled Ash. "I went home the summer of my green year and I saw my adolescence hairstylist and she was like, 'Okay, we're not accomplishing this,' so she started the grow-out process. Aback I [went aback to] school, I did a lot of perm rod sets and Bantu knots that came out really, absolutely beautiful because the majority of my beard was still straight. So I had this accomplished loose-curl attending activity on which was cool, until the majority of my beard started growing out and I was like, 'Oh shit, what do I do?'"
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